Fixed Gear Touring (Danube / Donau Bike Path)

Getting there by train - In Austria, Germany and Slovakia you can jump on regional trains with your bike and between Vienna and Passau there is a good train service that runs there and back daily, May to Oct. It costs €24 inc bike and a coffee. It is called the Elebnisbahn and goes from the Franz Joseph Bahnhof.

Vienna to Bratislava

About 70kms, and apart from being able to visit 2 capital cities by bike in the same day the ride is also a good one. From the city centre head to the Prater (a big park with a fun fare at one end) before crossing over the new and old Danube and the DonauInsel (a long thin island between the two rivers) by bridge. Turn right and follow the river. The scenery soon changes and takes a few twists and turns, as the cycle path first passes through a FKK section (nudist area), before heading through an oil refinary then into the Lobau nature reserve. On the path you don't often see the river, but there are plenty of lakes and loads of trees. The town of Hainburg has an old castle up on the hill, which is quicker to pass through than go round and soon after this you cross the border into Slovakia. A passport isn't needed as the path goes round the side of the border control, but I'm not sure if it is in use anymore as no ones seems to be manning it. Bratislava looms up on the left side of the river and you think great we are there, but it never seems to get any nearer. Before going under a motorway bridge look out for an old second world war bunker on the left just after a left bend. A mate and I found a way into it and had a good look round. After going over the bridge you have arrived in Bratislava. The beer is cheap, about €1 a 1/2 litre and I once stayed in a great Hostel with it's own basement pub (I can't rember the name) in January after taking part in Piratislava, a bike race between gangs of pirates competing to find Mamarowdies treasure, with plenty of sabotage, and drinking etc (google it on youtube for a video). Bratislava seems a nice place, but the last time I went it was dark and I was drunk for most of the time and all I can remember was the hostel bar and a strange bunker nightclub deep in the ground under the castle that played some really full on hardcore music. 

Fixed Gear Touring (Danube / Donau Bike Path)

For anyone out there wanting to ride the Danube bikepath on a fixed gear bike here's some info and some of my experiences. Over the last 2 years I have riden from Vienna to Bratislava a couple of times, Vienna to Ottensheim (near Linz) and back and from Passau to Regensberg. I hope soon to make it out to Budapest. I have a selection of bikes to choose from, which include my old faithfull hardtail moutain bike and a steel framed racing bike with loads of gears, but since I went fixed a few years ago I just can't bring myself to even consider taking a more sensible option for a touring trip. My fixed gear bike comes with me and that's that. For me it adds to the whole experience making the trip more of adventure. A comfortable touring bike with all the gear is way too boring. Anyway years ago, before multiple gear systems were invented this type of bike went everywhere and no one thought any more about it. The going is pretty much flat and the only thing that can slow you down is the wind, if it's blowing staright at you. I try to stay light and not take much with me. On the trip from Vienna to Ottensheim (250kms) I built a rack for the back of the bike to carry a tent and sleeping bag, but found it destroyed the nimble feel of the bike and now I just stick to a smallish rucksac, containing the essentials (rain gear, a few tools, change of clothes etc). There are loads of  bed & breakfast places along the route and for €15 to €20 a night you get a good nights sleep, a hot shower and a big breakfast. I have found there is no need to book in advance as there are so many of the places, you will usually find a room without too much trouble.

Vienna - Ottensheim (Cyclocamp)

Through the Bike Kitchen in Vienna I had heard about a Cyclocamp happening in Ottensheim, which is just outside Linz. Quite a few people I knew were heading there. I was keen to ride at least there, but knew I had the option of taking the train back if I found it too much. A friend of mine needed to be in Saltzburg before the Cyclocamp ended but was up for joining me on the ride down  He too rides a fixed gear bike and like me hadn't been on a long ride like this before. We decided to leave on a Thursday evening after he had finished work. I think it was some time after 18.00 before we hit the road and the plan was to make it to Traismauer, which was about 70km away. My friend had sorted out a place to stay through Couch Surfing. This was a 1st for me Couch Surfing and as we later found out for the Couch Surfing hosts too. We made good time just stopping in Tulln for a quick rest and after asking for directions 4 or 5 times in Traismauer we found the place we were staying at. A young couple in their early 20's were waiting for us and had converted their sitting room into a very comfortable bedroom. We ordered some Pizza, showered, drank a few beers and then hit the sack, knowing we had a big ride to do the next day. Our hosts sorted us out with breakfast and at 9.00 we set off in the direction of Krems.

Tulln

Tulln - My pack donkey all loaded up 

The Couch Surfer well chuffed with the accommodation

A Big TV at the end of the bed, what more could you want

 For me the most boring part of the ride was Vienna to Krems, maybe because I had already cycled some of it before, but after Krems we hit the Wachau region and the scenery really picked up. Our mission was to get the the Cyclocamp in Ottensheim before it got dark. We had approx 180km to ride, but felt we could do it. We saw many other touring cyclists along the route, but hardly any of them were heading our way, but all in the direction of Vienna. After Stopping just ouside Melk to refill the water bottles my friend without realising it until  an hour or so later had left his smart phone at an info point. We stopped for lunch at a supermarket that had some tables and odd icecream cone chairs, which were located in the carpark to the front of the shop. It was here and after this photo below was taken (note the happy face) that we discoved the phone was gone.   

  

All smiles in the icecream cone chairs

   

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To be continue...................................................................................